2025 West to Angel Fire, NM. Day 2 & 3: Fort Worth to Palo Duro Canyon and Amarillo

The Agricoutourist
23 hours ago
7 min read

Morning at Miss Molly’s

We started the second morning at Miss Molly’s, waking up to the sound of the girls trading dreams from the night before. The coffee was ready in the Airbnb kitchen, and Alice and I spent a quiet moment in the living room. I made a few calls to check in with family while the girls got dressed and geared up for the day.

Boots and the Cattle Drive

Our first stop was the Double D Ranch store, and I could’ve stayed there all day. I've afewpari of their boots but had no idea they had such an amazing clothes collection!!!! I could have bought one of everything and been happy the rest of my life - or until the next season. The ranch water they were handing us as we shopped didn't help. I picked out a fabulous new pair of boots and some fun accessories to decorate my hat. Olivia spotted my boots later and decided she needed a pair of her own. We made a second trip back to the store, and just like that, she had her first pair of fancy boots—she was thrilled.

Next up was the cattle drive through the Fort Worth Stockyards.

Back on the road, the girls got the paper dolls changed into Apache outfits, a nod to our next destination: Palo Duro Canyon. We’d talked about dressing them as Comanches too, but Apache felt more fitting for the day ahead.

The Land Beneath Our Feet: Palo Duro Canyon

We hit Highway 287 and headed northwest. As we drove, we talked about Palo Duro Canyon, often called the “Grand Canyon of Texas.” It stretches about 120 miles and drops up to 800 feet deep. Its colorful rock layers—reds, purples, tans—are the result of millions of years of sediment built up and carved by the Prairie Dog Town Fork of the Red River.

The area is full of fossils, from ancient amphibians to prehistoric sharks. The land was once covered by inland seas and lush forests, and you can still see the story of that past written in the rock.

The canyon has a long human history too. The Apache, followed by the Comanche and Kiowa, used it as a natural refuge for shelter, water, and hunting. In 1874, the Battle of Palo Duro Canyon took place here, a turning point in the Red River War, when U.S. forces burned Comanche camps and destroyed more than 1,400 horses.

Wildflowers, Wildlife, and a Journal Page or Two

Along the way, we kept our eyes out for javelinas, wildflowers, and maybe even a tumbleweed or two (still nothing on that last one which serves my classroom as a chandelier). The landscape was full of prickly pear, yucca, mesquite, and soapberry, all waving under the Texas sun. We spotted a few tiny squash blossoms, and I picked one to tuck into my hat while the girls added them to their journals.

Today’s craft of the day happened right there in the car. The girls started writing and drawing in their travel notebooks, and we tried our hand at some flower pressing with the blossoms we collected along the road. It was quiet and focused—just the right creative outlet for a long drive.

A Word to Guide Us

The devotional for the day focused on letting go of control—not trying to do everything alone, asking for help when we need it, and trusting that things don’t have to be perfect to be meaningful.

That theme carried through into the travel tarot cards we pulled:

My card: Guide of Wands – Let go of perfection. Be flexible. Make room for joy.
Maisie: The Empress – Slow down. Nourish your body and mind.
Olivia: Three of Swords – Be gentle. Let logic take a backseat.
Alice: Temperance – Rest. Share the load and restore your energy.

The word that came out of all of that: spontaneity. And it fit. The day unfolded with just enough planning to keep us moving, and just enough flexibility to keep it fun.

A Bit of Heat with Lunch

We stopped at a little Mexican restaurant along the way. I stepped out to grab something from the car, and while I was gone, Alice made a little request to the server: “Add your hottest pepper to her salad.” Sure enough, when my meal arrived, there it was—a giant jalapeño, bold and unapologetic. And it was delicious. Just enough heat to wake up my taste buds and get everyone laughing.

Drive Time and New Adventures

Later in the drive, the girls decided to use their “phone a friend” to get more background on Palo Duro Canyon. They called Pops, who gave them a quick history lesson and a few fun facts to add to their journals.

As the miles rolled by, we passed abandoned homes and wide stretches of Texas prairie. Alice did most of the driving while I set up our new geocache account. We officially named our group We Who Search, and the hunt is now on for the next few days.

Somewhere along the way, we also learned that Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade was filmed in this area. It made the dusty landscapes feel even more cinematic.

Canyon Sunset + A Show

We pulled into our cabins around 6:30 p.m. The girls stretched their legs and wandered a bit while Alice and I unpacked and got things organized. Then we headed down into the canyon for the evening’s main event: The Texas Musical.

Set at the base of the canyon, surrounded by towering red walls, the show was full of music, lights, and energy. It was a great way to wrap up the day, with just enough pageantry to match the landscape.

Nighttime Wind-Down

The day ended with a few Texas ghost stories before bed—nothing too spooky, just enough to keep things fun—and a check-in on our journals. The flower petals we pressed were already starting to dry, and the girls added a few final notes before lights out.

It was a full day. A little shopping, a little history, a lot of laughs—and a reminder that the best moments are often the ones you didn’t plan.

Sunrise Run and Trail Ride

We woke up early in our little cabin tucked inside Palo Duro Canyon—well, some of us did. Maysie was out the door before sunrise, off on a solo run through the canyon trails. Alice joined her just in time to catch the sun spilling over the canyon walls, and the two of them soaked in the morning light while the rest of us moved a bit slower (read: coffee in hand, staring blankly).

After everyone was up and functioning, we headed to the Palo Duro Stables for a trail ride. Our guides were Kristin and Jessie, a husband-and-wife duo who—along with their two cowboy kids, Kody Jo (12) and Kash (6)—are fourth-generation canyon locals. Their family was one of the first to settle here, and as we rode past old stone ruins and forgotten cabins, Jessie shared stories that brought the place to life.

We also learned that Chris Stapleton had once ridden one of their horses during a visit here—and that very ride inspired his song White Horse. So yes, technically, we were riding with music history.

What struck me most was how much passion and grit it takes to run a family business like theirs. Jessie talked about the pressure of rising land prices, taxes, and the ever-creeping sprawl of million-dollar homes edging closer to their view. I definitely underestimated how much work goes into keeping the trails rideable, the horses healthy, and the heritage alive.

Our ride was cut a bit short thanks to some unexpected floodwaters (nothing like a little “surprise river crossing” to keep you humble), but not before Jessie pointed out native plants, shared his knowledge of the area's wildlife, and showed us where he once found actual dinosaur bones—and even a sabertooth tiger tooth sticking out of a rock. Casual.

After we dismounted and gave the horses a proper thank-you, we headed to the Palo Duro Visitor Center. Their Native American jewelry selection was amazing—tons of antique and artist-signed pieces. Yes, a few more pieces may have found their way into my bag.

Habaneros and Route 66

Then it was wheels up to Amarillo for some Route 66 fun. First stop: The Golden Light Cafe, which dates back to 1946 and claims its spot as the oldest restaurant on Route 66 in Texas. Of course, I had to order the habanero burger—because if something comes with a heat warning, I take it personally. It was absolutely worth it: spicy, greasy, messy perfection.

Pic taken by girls as we were waiting on them - again

Fueled up, we spent the rest of the afternoon treasure hunting through Amarillo’s antique and vintage shops. The girls scored some funky finds, and I tried to resist buying another turquoise ring (tried).

Wagon Dreams and Dottie

Then came one of the biggest surprises of the trip: our next lodging—a covered wagon at The Big Texan Resort. Yep, a wagon. With beds. And AC. The girls were ecstatic and immediately ran off to explore the “resort” while I took a moment to work on my hat project. It’s starting to look… questionably festive. Honestly, it might be crossing over into county fair float territory. But I’ve invested too much time to turn back now. Hat completion is inevitable.

That night, we took the resort’s shuttle to the Big Texan Steak Ranch, home of the legendary 72-ounce steak challenge. We didn’t attempt it. The place was wild: giant stuffed animals, old West vibes, and a band playing while hopeful challengers tried (and failed) to beat the steak clock.

On the shuttle ride, we met Dottie, an 84-year-old solo traveler. Since her husband passed twenty years ago, she’s been on the move—scuba diving, touring the country in a van, driving a school bus here and there, riding her motorcycle, and now planning to skydive with her Navy SEAL son on her 85th birthday. After hearing that, I momentarily questioned my own get fit goals—such as my very modest plan to wake up and do a bit of yoga tomorrow morning.